First task was to reinstall the upgraded flywheel and the PSRU. First shot below is the backside of the PSRU with the newly pressed on spider gear onto the splined shaft. Also seen below is the new aluminum bushing that replaces the pilot bearing.
The next shot illustrates the first of 2 elbows that begin installation in the former location of the site glass of the PSRU. These fittings will connect to the oil tank return line.
About to press in, or in my case, tap in the pilot bushing.
Another shot of the thickness of the bushing.
The upgraded flywheel and the rubber doughnuts. Note the unthreaded studs on the flywheel upon which the rubbers will mount. No more bolts and nuts needed to secure them to the drivetrain.
Doughnuts mounted to the flywheel, awaiting installation on the crank pulley.
Finger tightening the 6 flywheel bolts after a generous coating of blue loctite.
Torque wrench and requisite elbow grease liberally applied.
Rubber doughnuts hung in place in the correct orientation as designated by the hand drawn image (from the factory) on the flywheel. It will be hard to screw this up.
Now carefully begin the alignment process of the splined driveshaft into the pilot bushing and the 4 aluminum standoffs/bolts into their respective holes on the engine.
It actually fit quite easily and there was no real force required to set it into place. Another liberal dose of elbow grease and the torque wrench finished off this important task.
Now, I wanted to continue to plumb the PSRU for its engine oil circulation, so the first of 2 flared steel fittings was threaded into place with sealant. This was the original location of the gearbox temperature sender, so I removed it and relocated it the adjacent hole. The flexible steel oil circulation line was pretty short and I needed every bit of help to span the distance from the oil galley port on the engine to the PSRU. You can just see the terminating end of the flexible steel oil line on the left side of the picture.
In order to obtain good access to the oil galley port, it was necessary to remove the intake manifold which requires a ball hex driver as shown below by the extreme angled approach to the allen bolt.
Once the manifold was removed, the target was much easier to locate and a trial fit of the flared fitting with the other end of the oil line. Again, the flared fitting was tightened into the galley port with a liberal amount of thread sealer.
Next, the manifold was reinstalled paying careful attention to the clearance of the steel oil line. There could not have been any less clearance between one of the pipes of the intake and the terminus of the oil line - literally 1 or 2 millimeters.
Another view of the oil galley end of the line as it runs to the PSRU. That is the starter that the oil line is passing over enroute to the PSRU.
And finally, a complete shot of the oil line running from the engine's galley to the PSRU. Note the adele clamp securing the line from interference with the ring gear of the flywheel.
Upgraded oil tank installation is next up. After applying a thin coat of the Right Stuff to the top of the oil tank, where it mounts to the block, it was necessary to get a long allen driver with extensions to reach the mounting holes. I believe there were 12 M6 metric bolts that had to be installed and torqued to 35 inch-pounds torque. Lots of overhead reaching with delicate positioning - not too much fun....but got her done.
This shot shows the bottom of the oil tank and looking up into the lid, where the bolts are securing the assembly to the block.
The blue return line from the PSRU had to be connected to its bung, threaded with a barbed fitting. Also seen in the background is the silver steel teflon oil supply line which runs from the block to the top of the oil tank.
Last task for this installment involved glassing up another oil cooler duct. I used a couple of tin cans, taped end to end for my mold. Covered them with duct tape and then slathered them with car wax. Three or four layers of glass cloth should do the trick. Shown below is the beginning of the mold removal process, which involves carefully destroying the tin cans. It was not as difficult as it might look. After some initial crumpling, it was easy enough to work a thin bladed screwdriver around the edge and bend the can inward, so it could be removed.
The prize!
No doubt you'll know your plane inside and out!
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Greg