The first step was to thoroughly pour over Van's RV-12 schematic that shows the entire Van's Skyview system. I purposely refer to it as Van's as opposed to Dynon's because of the AV-50000A Control Module, shown below, in the lower left hand corner of the photo.
This magical black box acts as the termination for all of the Skyview harnesses running from all of the various components: EMS, Transponder, Comm, Switch & Fuse Panel, Autopilot servos, just to name a few. Without a very detailed tracing of wires through the maze of the Control Module, one is quite lost as to where things go and what they do....even WITH a very detailed analysis, it remains a daunting task. Never the less, I persevered and sought out several other opinions of those with more experience than myself and finally arrived with the 10 or so wires that now make up my Viking Firewall Forward wiring harness. This replaces the Firewall Forward wire harness that Van's ships with their Rotax 912 Engine package.
The two picture below show the 25 pin dsub connector for the Viking Firewall Forward wiring harness.
Now its time to start plugging the high dollar electrowizzes (I believe that's what Bob Nuckolls calls them.) into their respective instrument panel holes and finish up the initial wiring of what's available....without an aircraft tailcone and the ADAHRS unit.
Time for the first power up and this is what I saw...
After some reading in the Dynon Installation manual, I was able to go to a full EMS screen and start configuring engine sensors. The user interface is delightful.
A rather poor close up of the instruments...
After a couple of calls to Dynon for a couple of problems (no ADS-B transceiver showing up - the result of an incomplete crimp on a splice), I was able to find the EFIS and EMS components on the network as well as 4 of the 5 serial devices (the ELT was not yet wired up), so I think that I am good to go!
The ELT wiring was next and consisted of running four 20 or 22 AWG wires into a very tiny din connector. Instead of soldering the wires, I opted to crimp female dsub pins that I could then slide onto the ends of the posts of the tiny din connector (not shown).
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